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Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Oh Holy (Humble) Argentina!!!

With Pope Fracis' inauguration today, Argentina is certainly going to be getting a lot of attention from both Catholic & non-Christian drinkers alike - like we needed another reason to drink its delicious wines...
While many may quickly pick up the great Malbec or the growing in popularity Torrontes (see post "Mendoza & The Queen of Argentina" ), in honor of Pope Fracis' humble ways, I recommend the workhorse grape of Mendoza: Bonarda.

Bonarda is the 2nd most planted red grape in Mendoza, obviously behind Malbec, and garners most of its popularity inside of Argentina's boarders as an everyday humble red dinner wine. While small amounts have been exported over the past few years, it is seeing the beginning of the take off growth that Malbec had a couple years back with its name being featured more commonly in "Limited Time Offer" (LTO) spaces on restaurant wine menus.

Also known as Charbono in California, and Bonarda is nicknamed "Sweet Black" in its native land of Italy (exact origins are contested, but both stories land us in Italy). While the wines it makes are not even close to being sweet, black is definitely a descriptor showcasing blueberry & blackberry fruits along with cassias in most cases. Like its brethren Malbec, Bonarda can be made in both light, med, & full bodied styles; but in my opinion shows its deft at the ends of the spectrum - offering a new flavor to lighter styles but its true potential when in full form.

Finding a widely available Bonarda was a little tricky, but luckily one of my favorite Mendoza producers, Zuccardi, has one in their Series A portfolio for only $12. Tasting it for the first time this past Saturday at the shop alongside a bunch of regular patrons, we all agreed it is definitely an example of the full bodied black Bonarda that is personally my favorite. The color was the first thing that caught everyone's eye - a rich deep royal red with slightly rose pink edges. Even the men called it "pretty." The nose had strong notes of leather, violets, & black cherry compote with more fruit skin & dried herbs on the palate. While this wine could easily sit on the bench for 5 years or so, it had a rounder tannin structure* resembling its friend Malbec, but slightly higher acid, given a nod to its Italian roots.

Pairing suggestions? I would stick with those rustic style dark meats such as Rib Eye, Roasted or Grilled Lamb, or even an Eggplant Lasagna if vegetarian is more your style.

All in all, everyone at the shop really quite liked it, although we all agreed we may wait about 3 years from the printed date to get a bit more ripe fruit flavors. If anything, it is a delicious reminder of what a humble grape can do if given the chance to shine.

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* In further research of this wine, the rounder tannins were aided by only having 30% of this wine see oak. If you prefer heavier tannins, I would look for a Bonarda where closer to 60-80% of the juice was oak fermented or aged.

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